PS2 Cooling Fan Upgrade

Replace the loud original fan in a fat PlayStation 2 with a quieter 60 mm fan kit

Earlier fat PlayStation 2 consoles can produce noticeable fan noise, especially after years of dust buildup or bearing wear. For this project, I replaced the original rear exhaust fan with a quieter 60 mm fan and model-specific mounting bracket.

The installation shown here is based on the upgrade demonstrated in Macho Nacho Productions’ “Easiest PS2 SSD and Fan Upgrade” video. That installation uses a replacement fan assembly designed to fit the PS2 without cutting the console shell or soldering directly to the motherboard.

Important: Do not choose a replacement fan based only on its physical size. The fan voltage, startup voltage, connector polarity, airflow direction and mounting bracket must all be compatible with your exact PS2 and installation kit.

Project overview

Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated time: 45–90 minutes
Soldering required: No, when using a complete plug-and-play kit
Console type: Fat PlayStation 2
Primary purpose: Reduce fan noise while maintaining safe airflow
Main risks: Damaging ribbon cables, pinching the fan wire or installing an electrically incompatible fan

What this upgrade accomplishes

• Replaces an aging or noisy original fan

• Reduces the amount of fan noise heard during gameplay

• Uses a larger 60 × 60 × 25 mm fan in many aftermarket kits

• Retains the PS2’s original fan-control behavior when connected through a properly designed harness

• Provides a replaceable standard-size fan rather than relying on an increasingly old original unit

This modification is primarily a noise-reduction upgrade. A quieter fan is not automatically a cooling upgrade; the replacement must still move enough air through the heatsinks, power-supply area and rear exhaust opening.

Compatibility

This guide is for original fat PS2 consoles, including many systems in these families:

• SCPH-3000X

• SCPH-3500X

• SCPH-37000

• SCPH-3900X

• SCPH-5000X

The internal fan assembly, rear panel and power wiring can vary between revisions. A kit advertised for “PS2 Fat” is not automatically compatible with every fat console.

Before ordering a kit:

1. Check the model number on the rear label.

2. Compare it to the kit maker’s compatibility list.

3. Confirm whether your console uses a network adapter.

4. Check whether the kit requires a particular power-supply or rear-panel layout.

5. Confirm that the fan and wiring harness are included—not only the bracket.

Current versions of The Peaceful Outcome kit, similar to the design demonstrated in the reference video, ask buyers to choose between configurations for most fat models and certain SCPH-5000X systems without a network adapter. This is a sign that the mounting arrangement is not identical across every console.

IMAGE NEEDED: Rear PS2 label showing the complete SCPH model number.

Caption: Verify the console model before ordering a fan kit.

Alt text: Rear label of a fat PlayStation 2 with its SCPH model number highlighted.

Choosing the correct replacement fan

Recommended: Complete model-specific kit

The easiest installation uses a kit containing:

• 60 mm fan

• PS2-specific rear mounting bracket

• Fan guard or rear grille

• PS2 fan-header wiring harness

• Required screws

• Installation instructions

A complete kit avoids cutting the factory bracket and usually eliminates soldering.

Replacement fan only

Installing a bare 60 mm computer fan normally requires:

• A custom or 3D-printed bracket

• A rear grille

• A compatible electrical adapter

• Verification of voltage and polarity

• Possible cutting, soldering or wire splicing

The original fan is thinner than a typical 60 × 60 × 25 mm desktop fan. One documented SCPH-39001 installation required cutting the original bracket because its stock fan was approximately 15 mm deep while the replacement Noctua was 25 mm deep. A purpose-built replacement bracket avoids that irreversible modification.

Important voltage warning

Noctua sells visually similar 60 mm fans in both 5-volt and 12-volt versions.

The label matters:

Fan

Rated voltage

Size

Maximum speed

Noctua NF-A6x25 5V

5 V

60 × 60 × 25 mm

3,000 RPM

Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX

12 V

60 × 60 × 25 mm

3,000 RPM

The 12 V NF-A6x25 FLX has a specified starting voltage of 7 V. A fat PS2’s original fan connection has been observed supplying approximately 5–8 V depending on operating conditions and console configuration. This means a directly connected 12 V fan may start inconsistently or run below its intended airflow.

The 5 V Noctua is electrically different, but that does not mean it should automatically be wired directly to every PS2. If the console can supply more than 5 V, the kit may need a resistor, regulator or specially designed harness.

Best practice: Use the exact fan supplied or approved by the kit manufacturer. Do not replace it with a different 5 V or 12 V fan unless you have confirmed the kit’s output voltage, connector polarity and expected airflow.

Noctua rates the NF-A6x25 5V at up to 29.2 m³/h, 19.3 dB(A) and 2.18 mm H₂O static pressure. It also includes an OmniJoin adapter for proprietary connectors, although that adapter changes the connector—not the supplied voltage.

IMAGE NEEDED: Close-up of the replacement fan label showing its model and voltage.

Caption: Do not install the fan until its voltage and model number have been confirmed.

Alt text: Noctua fan label showing the model number and rated voltage.

Parts and tools required

Parts

• Compatible fat PlayStation 2 fan-upgrade kit

• Included 60 mm replacement fan

• Included PS2 rear mounting bracket

• Included PS2 fan-header harness

• Included fan guard and screws

• Optional replacement thermal pads only if the originals are damaged

• Optional compressed-air duster for cleaning

Tools

• Phillips #0 screwdriver

• Phillips #1 screwdriver

• Plastic spudger

• Precision tweezers

• Soft cleaning brush

• Magnetic screw mat or labeled containers

• Flashlight

• Camera or phone for documenting cable routing

Recommended testing equipment

• Infrared thermometer, when available

• Small strip of tissue paper for confirming exhaust airflow

• Original fan for comparison and emergency fallback

Before beginning

1. Test the PS2 before opening it.

2. Confirm that the original fan spins.

3. Listen for grinding, buzzing or bearing noise.

4. Run the console for approximately 20 minutes.

5. Feel for airflow at the rear exhaust.

6. Record a short before-upgrade noise sample.

7. Photograph the fan kit and all included pieces.

A before-upgrade test helps separate an existing console fault from a problem introduced during installation.

Stop immediately if the original fan does not spin. The problem may be a failed fan fuse, damaged connector or motherboard fault rather than only a worn fan.

Installation instructions

Step 1: Shut down and disconnect the PS2

1. Turn the PS2 off.

2. Move the rear power switch to the off position.

3. Disconnect the AC power cable.

4. Disconnect audio/video, controllers and memory cards.

5. Remove any disc.

6. Remove the network adapter or expansion-bay cover.

7. Allow the console to sit unplugged before opening it.

Never install or test the fan while the console is open and connected to wall power.

Step 2: Remove the outer shell

Follow the detailed Redux Gems PS2 Disassembly Guide for the full case-opening procedure.

In summary:

1. Place the PS2 upside down on a soft surface.

2. Remove the rubber feet and plastic screw covers.

3. Remove all case screws.

4. Record the location of long and short screws.

5. Return the console to its normal position.

6. Lift the shell carefully from the rear.

7. Watch for the reset/eject-button ribbon cable.

8. Release the button assembly instead of pulling on its cable.

Some consoles have eight case screws while other revisions have ten. The SCPH-30001 documented by iFixit uses four long and four short screws, but the guide warns that other models use a different number and arrangement.

IMAGE NEEDED: Bottom of the PS2 with every case screw numbered.

Caption: Record each screw location because fat PS2 revisions use different screw layouts.

Step 3: Inspect and clean the original cooling path

Before removing components, inspect:

• Rear fan grille

• Original fan blades

• Heatsink fins

• Power-supply area

• Side and front intake openings

• Plastic air guides

• Expansion-bay area

Hold the original fan blades stationary while removing dust with compressed air.

A fan upgrade will not correct blocked airflow. Dust trapped in the heatsinks or intake openings can still cause heat buildup even when a new fan is installed.

IMAGE NEEDED: Dust buildup around the original fan and heatsinks.

Caption: Clean the entire airflow path rather than replacing only the fan.

Alt text: Dust surrounding the original fat PS2 cooling fan and heatsink fins.

Step 4: Remove the optical drive

The original fan connector is located deep enough inside many fat PS2 revisions that substantial disassembly is required.

1. Remove the screws securing the optical drive.

2. Lift it only far enough to view the cables underneath.

3. Photograph every cable connection.

4. Release ribbon-cable locking tabs where present.

5. Disconnect each cable straight from its connector.

6. Place the optical drive on a clean surface.

Do not pull a ribbon cable by one corner.

Step 5: Remove the controller-port assembly

1. Remove the controller-port mounting screws.

2. Lift the assembly carefully.

3. Disconnect its wide ribbon cable.

4. Place the board somewhere safe.

This cable is easy to leave partially seated during reassembly, which can cause controller or memory-card problems later.

Step 6: Remove the internal chassis

Depending on the PS2 revision:

1. Remove the expansion-bay plastic pieces that prevent chassis removal.

2. Remove the applicable chassis and power-supply mounting screws.

3. Confirm that no cable remains attached to the plastic shell.

4. Support the metal assembly with both hands.

5. Lift it from the lower shell carefully.

Do not lift the power-supply board separately until you understand how it connects to the motherboard.

The documented SCPH-30001 fan-removal procedure requires freeing the internal assembly before the small fan connector can be accessed.

Step 7: Disconnect the original fan

Locate the original fan wire where it connects to the motherboard.

1. Remove any tape holding the wire in place.

2. Grip the fan plug with tweezers or your fingers.

3. Pull the connector straight upward or outward according to its socket orientation.

4. Do not pull on the wires.

5. Photograph the original wire colors and connector direction.

iFixit’s SCPH-30001 guide identifies a small piece of tape over the fan cable and instructs pulling the connector straight from its motherboard socket.

IMAGE NEEDED: Close-up of the original fan connector before removal.

Caption: Photograph the original connector orientation and remove it by the plug, not the wires.

Alt text: Original PlayStation 2 fan plug connected to the motherboard.

Step 8: Remove the original fan and rear bracket

1. Remove the screws securing the original fan assembly.

2. Release any plastic clips.

3. Separate the fan assembly from the rear shell.

4. Keep the original fan, bracket and screws together.

5. Do not cut the original bracket when using a drop-in kit.

Saving the original assembly makes the upgrade reversible.

IMAGE NEEDED: Original fan assembly beside the replacement kit.

Caption: Keep the original assembly intact in case the console needs to be returned to factory configuration.

Step 9: Compare the original and replacement assemblies

Before installing anything, compare:

• Overall dimensions

• Mounting-hole locations

• Connector style

• Wire polarity

• Cable length

• Fan airflow arrows

• Rear-panel alignment

• Clearance around the heatsink

• Clearance around the power supply

• Clearance around the network adapter

The replacement fan may be physically thicker than the original. The custom bracket should position the fan without pressing against internal components.

Do not proceed when:

• The connector must be forced

• The red and black wires appear reversed

• The fan label shows an unexpected voltage

• The bracket interferes with the network adapter

• The fan blades touch the grille

• The supplied screws are too long

Step 10: Confirm fan orientation

Most axial fans have small arrows molded into the frame indicating:

• Blade rotation

• Airflow direction

The PS2 fan should move warm air out through the rear of the console.

1. Locate the airflow arrow.

2. Position it toward the rear exhaust.

3. Confirm that the open intake side faces the heatsinks.

4. Install the fan guard on the exposed rear side.

Installing the fan backward can disrupt the PS2’s intended front-to-rear cooling path.

IMAGE NEEDED: Replacement fan with its airflow arrow highlighted.

Caption: The airflow arrow should point toward the rear of the console.

Alt text: Arrow on a 60 mm fan frame showing airflow directed out the rear of the PS2.

Step 11: Install the fan into the replacement bracket

When the kit arrives unassembled:

1. Place the fan into the bracket in the correct orientation.

2. Align all mounting holes.

3. Install the provided fan screws.

4. Tighten the screws evenly.

5. Do not overtighten them into a 3D-printed bracket.

6. Install the rear fan guard.

7. Spin the blades manually to confirm they do not rub.

A 3D-printed bracket can crack or strip if its screws are overtightened.

IMAGE NEEDED: Replacement fan mounted in the new rear bracket.

Caption: Tighten the screws only enough to hold the fan securely.

Step 12: Install the replacement bracket

1. Position the new bracket where the original fan assembly was mounted.

2. Align it with the rear opening and original mounting points.

3. Confirm that the fan guard is centered in the opening.

4. Install the bracket screws supplied by the manufacturer.

5. Check that the bracket sits flat.

6. Verify clearance around the AC socket and rear switch.

7. Confirm that the network adapter still fits.

Do not reuse an original screw when the new bracket’s instructions say to use a different length.

IMAGE NEEDED: New fan bracket installed inside the lower shell.

Caption: The bracket should sit flat without bending the shell or contacting the heatsink.

Step 13: Connect the fan harness

1. Connect the replacement fan to the supplied harness.

2. Route the harness along the original cable path when possible.

3. Plug the PS2 end into the motherboard fan header.

4. Verify the plug is fully seated.

5. Secure excess wire away from the fan blades.

6. Avoid placing the wire beneath a metal shield or screw post.

7. Do not use low-noise adapters unless the kit specifically requires them.

Noctua’s PC-oriented low-noise adapters are designed to reduce fan speed. Adding one to an already voltage-limited PS2 installation could reduce airflow further.

IMAGE NEEDED: Replacement harness connected and routed away from the fan blades.

Caption: Secure all cable slack so it cannot enter the fan or become pinched during reassembly.

Step 14: Inspect the installation

Before reassembling:

• Fan blades turn freely

• Airflow arrow points outward

• Harness is fully seated

• Wire polarity matches the kit

• No wire crosses a screw hole

• No wire touches the fan blades

• Fan bracket is secure

• Rear guard is secure

• Heatsinks and vents are clean

• Original ribbon cables remain undamaged

Photograph the completed internal installation.

Reassembly

Reassemble the PS2 in reverse order.

1. Return the chassis to the lower shell.

2. Confirm the fan wire remains visible and unpinched.

3. Reinstall the power-supply and chassis screws.

4. Reconnect the controller-port ribbon.

5. Reinstall the controller-port assembly.

6. Reconnect every optical-drive cable.

7. Secure the optical drive.

8. Route the reset/eject ribbon cable correctly.

9. Lower the top shell carefully.

10. Reinstall every case screw in its original location.

11. Reinstall the screw covers and feet.

12. Reinstall the network adapter or expansion-bay cover.

Do not force the top shell closed. Resistance usually means a cable, bracket or component is incorrectly positioned.

Initial testing

Step 1: Visual startup test

After the console is fully reassembled:

1. Leave the network adapter disconnected for the first basic test unless your kit specifically requires it.

2. Connect video and power.

3. Turn on the rear power switch.

4. Start the PS2.

5. Look through the rear grille to confirm that the fan begins spinning.

6. Listen for rubbing, clicking or pulsing.

7. Shut the console down immediately if the fan does not start.

Do not assume that a nearly silent fan is running. Confirm visually.

Step 2: Confirm airflow

Hold a light strip of tissue near the rear grille without allowing it to touch the blades.

The tissue should move away from the console, confirming exhaust airflow.

When airflow is moving inward, the fan is reversed.

Step 3: Perform a heat test

1. Allow the PS2 to idle for 10 minutes.

2. Confirm that warm air is leaving the rear.

3. Run a game for approximately 30 minutes.

4. Periodically confirm that the fan continues spinning.

5. Check for unusual heat, graphical corruption, freezing or shutdown.

6. Repeat the test with the internal hard drive active, when installed.

A longer test is particularly important when using an early PS2 model with an internal hard drive.

The referenced Macho Nacho article reported that its installation made the console much quieter, but it also acknowledged uncertainty about cooling performance because the PS2 output was approximately 7 V. That is why this guide requires verifying the exact fan and testing airflow instead of judging the result only by sound.

Troubleshooting

The new fan does not spin

Turn the console off immediately.

Check:

• Fan plug is fully seated

• Connector polarity is correct

• Harness is not damaged

• Fan blades are not obstructed

• Fan voltage matches the kit

• The 12 V fan’s startup voltage is not higher than the supply

• The original fan still works when reconnected

A 12 V NF-A6x25 FLX is specified to require 7 V to start. If the PS2 provides less during startup, the fan may remain stationary even though it might spin when manually nudged. Do not use a fan that fails to start reliably.

The fan spins slowly

Possible causes include:

• Incorrect 12 V fan

• Unapproved low-noise adapter

• Excess resistance in the wiring harness

• Partially seated connector

• Fan-control voltage below the fan’s design range

• Damaged fan motor

Quiet operation is not proof of sufficient airflow.

The fan is louder than expected

• Make sure no wire touches the blades.

• Confirm the fan guard is not bent.

• Loosen overtightened mounting screws slightly.

• Check whether the bracket is vibrating against the shell.

• Verify that the fan is not installed backward.

• Remove dust from the rear grille.

• Confirm that the sound is not coming from the optical drive or hard drive.

The console will not power on

• Reseat the reset/eject ribbon cable.

• Confirm the power-supply board is seated.

• Check the rear power-switch connection.

• Inspect for a loose screw.

• Recheck the controller and optical-drive cables.

• Remove the upgrade and restore the original fan for testing.

A loose reset/eject ribbon is a common reassembly problem after deep PS2 disassembly.

Controllers or memory cards no longer work

Reseat the controller-port ribbon cable. It may look connected while still being slightly crooked.

The disc tray does not open

• Recheck the optical-drive power cable.

• Reseat its ribbon cables.

• Confirm that no fan wire is routed beneath the drive.

• Make sure the top shell is not pressing on the tray.

The console becomes unusually hot

Shut it down and reinstall the original fan until the problem is resolved.

Check:

• Replacement fan orientation

• Fan speed and airflow

• Heatsink blockage

• Incorrect fan voltage

• Low-noise adapter accidentally installed

• Internal cable blocking airflow

• Bracket restricting the fan intake

• Thermal pads disturbed during disassembly

A lower-noise fan that moves less air than the original is not a successful upgrade.

Final results

After installing the replacement fan, the PS2 should produce significantly less fan noise while continuing to exhaust warm air through the rear of the console.

The best result is not the quietest possible installation. It is the quietest installation that:

• Starts reliably every time

• Maintains consistent airflow

• Fits without forcing the shell

• Uses an electrically compatible harness

• Remains stable during extended gameplay

Keep the original fan and mounting bracket in a labeled bag. They provide a known-compatible fallback if the replacement fan or harness fails later.

Related Redux Gems guides

• PS2 Disassembly and Cleaning

• PS2 Network Adapter IDE-to-SATA Upgrade

• PS2 Soft Mod with Free McBoot

• Create a Free McBoot Memory Card